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Haute Normandy Guide

Office de Tourisme de Rouen
Upper Normandy is made up of the Eure and Seine-Maritime counties - it is here that the Seine flows into the English Channel.

This cloudy land of rolling hills and valleys was a central stake in the many wars between France and England during the Middle Ages. Gastronomical culture revolves around typical farm products (cheese, such as camembert and neufchâtel, or Normandy cider) as much as seafood.

Beautiful port cities such as Dieppe, Fécamp or Le Tréport are remarkably easygoing areas, while in contrast Le Havre is a bustling metropolis. Cliff-top villages like Varangeville-sur-Mer provide stunning panoramic views, and Etretat in particular seems a monument carved into the cliff face by Neptune himself.

The region's architectural heritage is one of half-timbered houses, examples of which can be seen among the seaside villas of Fécamp, or further inland, in Rouen's old-town. There is so much to see in Haute-Normandie - it is a treasure trove of architectural, natural and cultural gems.
Location
Upper Normandy is made up of the Eure and Seine-Maritime counties - it is the place where the Seine flows into the English Channel. A land of country-folk, of rolling valleys under usually low, leaden skies, Haute Normandie is the birthplace of gourmet products such as Calvados or pont-l'évêque cheese. A maritime land with breath-taking, jagged cliffs along the coastline such as in Etretat, or charming little harbours like Honfleur, and a large, bustling seaport, Le Havre. Upper Normandy, with its mosaic of landscapes, will surely win you over.
History
When Romans landed in what is now Upper Normandy, they discovered a region made up of various Celtic communities. After its integration into the Merovingian Neustria, the area was claimed in 911 by Rollon, Normand leader and self-appointed duke.

Duke Guillaume's conquest of England in 1066 marked the beginning of a period of tension between English and French royalty, and in 1204 Philippe Auguste declared the entire dutchy part of the French Kingdom. This tension eventually led to the Hundred Years' War - Rouen was taken by the English between 1419 and 1449, during which time Joan of Arc was burnt at the stake on the place du Vieux-Marché. It is only from the 15th century that the region knew relative prosperity - despite religious wars which took their toll on Rouen, Le Havre and Evreux thrived until the 20th century.

All three cities were devastated by repeated bombings during the Second World War. Le Havre was redesigned by Auguste Perret in the post-war era, thanks to which the city reclaimed its status as one of Europe's major seaports.
Traditions
Cider production has been the dominant activity in Upper Normandy at least since the early Middle-Ages - it remains one of their local specialties even today.
Cider production begins with fruit. If distilled, cider will produce Calvados, and discarded apple pulp is used as animal fodder or fertiliser. Apples are picked in september, sorted, washed, dried and then mashed into brown pulp which is finally pressed. The juice is collected in casks or containers wherein the fermantation process begins and the liquid loses its dark shade.

The juice ferments for another month or so in an airtight environment after which it is bottled or can be fermented for another three months - this is the final step in the process.
Gastronomy
Upper Normandy is reputed for its farm products and definite "country" flavours. The sheep from the salt meadows is quite unique, naturally-salted meat. The Rouen-style duck (in blood) and Auge-valley-style chicken (with cream), are two local specialties that are worth trying out. Local seafood is equally delectable - sole, flounder, turbot and mackerel but also scallops and Cotentin oysters are all regional favourites, most of which are traditionally cooked with fresh cream.

Cheese varieties are mostly from the Auge area. There is camembert, pavé d'Auge, livarot and pont-l'évêque to name a few of the most well-known. When it comes to desert, suger, apples and butter are the main ingredients in almost every recipe. Honfleur boasts its "teurgoule" (oven-baked rice pudding) and "falue" (a type of brioche). The recipe for Normandy apple-pie, cooked in cider, has infinite variations each of which have mouth-watering appeal.
Cider and Calvados accompany just about every meal and are extensively used in cooking.
Tourist Information
Upper Normandy
FRANCE
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