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An introduction to Normandy

CDT Calvados
Le Pont de Normandie
Basse-Normandie
The sword of Saint-Micheal, pointing to the heavens, has been a beacon for pilgrims and travellers for over a thousand years.

Lower Normandy (Basse Normandie) is the land of the Vikings, of William the Conqueror, of early 20th century seaside resorts and of the infamous landings of the Second World War... The healthy "countryside" taste of local pie, the tarte Normande, and the range of excellent dairy products provide a light and savoury counterpoint to the awe-inspiring historical grandeur of this region.

The choice is yours: admire Aleçon's mythical architecture, feel the adrenaline rush of climbing down the wild gorges of Villiers or canoeing on the Vire, or discover local landscapes at your leasure on horseback. For the more easygoing visitor, Deauville and Trouville offer a relaxing break on the beach or an exciting night at the casino. Walks along the Cotentin peninsula towards Cherbourg are riddled with tourist spots which offer breath-taking landscapes and impressive listed heritage sites.

Apple orchards, cider-houses, little fishing ports and backcountry villages - all are timeless favourites that together give you a snapshot of life in Normandy.
Location:
Lower Normandy is a region that opens its arms to the world - geographically and historically, it has been a strategic point of passage since time immemorial. The 19th-century beach-resorts, such as the majestic Dauville or even Cherbourg, and the small village-harbours and back-country towns, are all favoured locations among visitors of the region.

Walking through the countryside, one can take the time to admire the expansive, sweet-scented apple orchards, or partake in the area's numerous horse-riding activities.
History
The towns of Luc-sur-Mer, Vaucelles, Fontenay-le-Marmion, Condé-sur-Ifs and Villy-Bocage, all have traces of the first human settlements in Normandy as far back as 6 000 BC. Various communities within the newly-conquered dominion of Julius Cesar were united in 56 BC.

The Northmen, which were locally known as the "Normands", invaded the area in the 9th century - it is this clan's name which later came to designate the region. As William the Conqueror began to take over England in the 11th century, the dutchy of Caen became more influential and Lower Normandy became the central claim throughout the endless conflicts between France and England, and this until the 15th century.

It is in 1790 that the region's three "départements" or counties were created, and the 19th century saw the extensive development of agriculture and the establishment of now-famous beach resorts (Trouville, Deauville and Cabourg).

The Second World War was a difficult period for Normandy in particular. As the main landing point for Allied troops in 1944, the area suffered considerable damages and certain cities were almost completely destroyed.
Traditions
Lower Normandy is a region respected for quality butter and cheese, but above all it is the local apples orchards which produce particularly good fruit. Consequently, cider has been the regional beverage par excellence as far back as the 13th century! To fully appreciate the subtlety of the various types - soft, hard and sparkling cider - each must be sampled at least once.

At the other end of the spectrum, the other local specialty is… horses! For if good cider makes happy men, then good apples make healthy horses! The region has some of finest breeds of horses and, alongside these magnificant beasts, an army of specialists to care for them: breeders, trainers, grooms, vets, farriers, saddlers… In their horsetracks and stud farms, these fine specimens of equestrian perfection will amaze riders, gamblers, and animal-lovers alike.
Gastronomy
On a typical Lower Normandy menu you will find: warm oysters "au pommeau" (with apple brandy), gray shrimp from the Mont-Saint-Michel bay (with a slice of buttered rye bread and a drop of lemon juice) or "bouchot" mussels, and "trou normand" (apple sorbet with a shot of Calvados) in the dessert section.

For meat-lovers, the local specialties include lamb from the Saint-Michel Bay's salt meadows accompanied by flageolets or green beans, Caen-style tripes or Trouville-style sole.

A lovely camembert, pont l'évêque or Livarot cheese will delight the senses before dessert.
Those with a sweet-tooth will love a Normand apple-pie, a brioche or a "teurgoule" (oven-baked rice pudding), all of which should be splashed with a healthy dose of cider or Calvados.

Office de Tourisme de Rouen
Le Gros Horloge à Rouen
Upper Normandy
Upper Normandy is made up of the Eure and Seine-Maritime counties - it is here that the Seine flows into the English Channel.

This cloudy land of rolling hills and valleys was a central stake in the many wars between France and England during the Middle Ages. Gastronomical culture revolves around typical farm products (cheese, such as camembert and neufchâtel, or Normandy cider) as much as seafood.

Beautiful port cities such as Dieppe, Fécamp or Le Tréport are remarkably easygoing areas, while in contrast Le Havre is a bustling metropolis. Cliff-top villages like Varangeville-sur-Mer provide stunning panoramic views, and Etretat in particular seems a monument carved into the cliff face by Neptune himself.

The region's architectural heritage is one of half-timbered houses, examples of which can be seen among the seaside villas of Fécamp, or further inland, in Rouen's old-town. There is so much to see in Haute-Normandie - it is a treasure trove of architectural, natural and cultural gems.
Location
Upper Normandy is made up of the Eure and Seine-Maritime counties - it is the place where the Seine flows into the English Channel. A land of country-folk, of rolling valleys under usually low, leaden skies, Haute Normandie is the birthplace of gourmet products such as Calvados or pont-l'évêque cheese. A maritime land with breath-taking, jagged cliffs along the coastline such as in Etretat, or charming little harbours like Honfleur, and a large, bustling seaport, Le Havre. Upper Normandy, with its mosaic of landscapes, will surely win you over.
History
When Romans landed in what is now Upper Normandy, they discovered a region made up of various Celtic communities. After its integration into the Merovingian Neustria, the area was claimed in 911 by Rollon, Normand leader and self-appointed duke.

Duke Guillaume's conquest of England in 1066 marked the beginning of a period of tension between English and French royalty, and in 1204 Philippe Auguste declared the entire dutchy part of the French Kingdom. This tension eventually led to the Hundred Years' War - Rouen was taken by the English between 1419 and 1449, during which time Joan of Arc was burnt at the stake on the place du Vieux-Marché. It is only from the 15th century that the region knew relative prosperity - despite religious wars which took their toll on Rouen, Le Havre and Evreux thrived until the 20th century.

All three cities were devastated by repeated bombings during the Second World War. Le Havre was redesigned by Auguste Perret in the post-war era, thanks to which the city reclaimed its status as one of Europe's major seaports.
Traditions
Cider production has been the dominant activity in Upper Normandy at least since the early Middle-Ages - it remains one of their local specialties even today.
Cider production begins with fruit. If distilled, cider will produce Calvados, and discarded apple pulp is used as animal fodder or fertiliser. Apples are picked in september, sorted, washed, dried and then mashed into brown pulp which is finally pressed. The juice is collected in casks or containers wherein the fermantation process begins and the liquid loses its dark shade.

The juice ferments for another month or so in an airtight environment after which it is bottled or can be fermented for another three months - this is the final step in the process.
Gastronomy
Upper Normandy is reputed for its farm products and definite "country" flavours. The sheep from the salt meadows is quite unique, naturally-salted meat. The Rouen-style duck (in blood) and Auge-valley-style chicken (with cream), are two local specialties that are worth trying out. Local seafood is equally delectable - sole, flounder, turbot and mackerel but also scallops and Cotentin oysters are all regional favourites, most of which are traditionally cooked with fresh cream.

Cheese varieties are mostly from the Auge area. There is camembert, pavé d'Auge, livarot and pont-l'évêque to name a few of the most well-known. When it comes to desert, suger, apples and butter are the main ingredients in almost every recipe. Honfleur boasts its "teurgoule" (oven-baked rice pudding) and "falue" (a type of brioche). The recipe for Normandy apple-pie, cooked in cider, has infinite variations each of which have mouth-watering appeal.
Cider and Calvados accompany just about every meal and are extensively used in cooking.