Vendée

Vendée is just south of the Loire on the Atlantic coast. You can enjoy four types of scenery in the area: hills and wooded pastures to the east, a 250-kilometre coastline, two coastal marshland areas (Les Sables-d'Olonne and Fontenay-le Comte) and an immense plain around La Roche-sur-Yon. This diversity is the backbone of the Vendée county - sail on the coast, walk the wooded countryside or take a slow boat-ride through the marshes... The choice is yours.

At the next bend in the road, a chateau or an abbey recalls Vendée's rich history (the Religious wars, the Vendée counter-revolutionary uprising, etc.).

For those with a taste for adventure, the Puy-du-Fou historical theme park offers a journey into another age, while the Vendée Globe round-the-world yacht race takes on the oceans single-handedly.

Vendée was invaded by the Vikings in the 9th century, during which they annexed the island of Noirmoutier, their future base camp. In 836 began the quest of the Noirmoutier monks to protect the relics of Saint Philibert from the Vikings. Finally in 875 they accepted to settle in Tournus in the Saône valley.

The Vendée War began with a revolution in 1793, an uprising quashed by the republican army in the winter of 1794 - this terrible military machine ordered mass executions and adopted a scorched earth policy to achieve its goals. It was not until 1795 that the region was pacified by Hoche who led the Republic to victory.

A poignant event that survived in the history books: Charrette, a revolutionary leader, was executed shouting "long live the King!" on March 29th 1796.

In a poor attempt to enthrone her son, the duchess of Berry attempted to spark an uprising against Louis-Philippe. In June Vendée was under siege, but was then pacified as the duchess did not receive much support. She was arrested in Nantes in November.

The industrialisation of the hedged farmlands in the 50's and 60's causes Vendée's economic miracle, the fruits of which can still be felt today.

As a land of tradition, the Vendée region perpetuates its heritage through folk groups - these groups learn traditional dances, such as the maraîchine, and traditional music which blends the vielle (a type of violin), the accordion, the Jew's harp and a unique bagpipe instrument known as the veuze. During a typical regional wedding, a "brioche dance" was customary - this implied the couple carrying a 30 to 50 kg brioche at arm's length...

Numerous traditional festivities take place throughout the year, such as the Challans fair, or the Fête des vieux métiers ("Old Professions Festival"). Have no doubt, the traditional rites and customs of the Vendée region is serious business… Seriously festive and riotous fun!

One should definitely try out some of Vendée's local pastries and baked products. Meant to be served during the aperitif, "préfou" is a kind barely-cooked bread dough seasoned with garlic and butter.

For those with a particular palate for seafood and fish, Vendée has what it takes - oysters, sole sablaise, sardines from Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie, and of course bouchot mussels from the Aiguillon bay with a lovely mouclade sauce.

To accompany the seafood, some bonnotte potatoes (surprisingly hazelnut-flavoured) and mogette beans are the perfect side dish.

Everyone seems to agree that Vendée brioche is some of the best in France, perfect with a sprinkle of eau-de-vie or some orange blossom.

To better appreciate these dishes, nothing goes down better than a fine local wine from Brem-sur-Mer, Pissotte, Mareuil-sur-Laye or Vix.